Home for the night: Christie Field, Cape Chignecto Provincial Park
Distance: 11.7 kms around and about Advocate
Weather: crazy wind/rain storm early morning, turning to gray and foggy, burning off to crisp, sunny and fresh all day
B: super mega bowl of oatmeal with granola AND a banana, coffee
L: coffee and crackers, followed by a muffin
D: amazing fish chowder and side salad at The Wild Caraway with hopped cider
D#2: Mexicali bean wrap with avocado and cashew cream. Chocolate and whiskey :)
awake before dawn
an early test for the day
and now, to dry out!
Remember how I went on and on about how calm and beautiful the beach was when I went to sleep? As someone who's grown up by the ocean you'd think I'd know better than to assume the peace and quiet would last.
I woke up to torrential rain and happily listened to it pound away on my tent, grateful for having put my tent inside the driftwood hobbit shelter for extra protection. Waking again on what could have been minutes, or hours later to my tent fly flapping, having already come loose in wild, raging winds that came up out of nowhere. I scrambled to find my glasses, headlamp and get out of my clothes to save them from getting wet as I crawled out of the tent. Fortunately it was mostly just blowing sea mist, not rain....but the world of serenity and bliss I had fallen asleep in was long gone, replaced by a raging storm.
I tried to re-anchor my tent, but seaweed blowing past me and branches on the hobbit hut falling over indicated that was a waste of time. There was no choice but to move....and staying naked to keep my clothes dry in the hopes of simply heading back into the tent after a quick fix wasn't an option anymore. I grabbed my rain gear, and hastily collapsed the tent pole before it snapped and managed to grab my sleeping bag, it's stuff sack and as much stuff that was waterproofed as possible.
No need to panic. The decision was made, and now all of my focus went to trying to keep my rapidly dampening home from getting unsalvageably wet. Slow, practiced movements, body awareness and strategy had all of my gear, Black Beauty included in three trips. In less than a half hour my tent was back up, happily protected in the leeward side of the sea wall and cottages.
Thermarests have two sides to them...and usually one is drier than the other after moments like this....so, I put on dry clothes, put down my sarong as a sheet and ignored the damp patches of my sleeping bag. The sky was starting to lighten and I toyed with the idea of just staying up....but my body was too sleepy.
Chirping birds and a gentle call from Donna that the coffee was ready woke me later. Peace reigned again and the fog was already burning off. Everyone in the cottage had been woken up by the wind as well, the roof was rattling and the walls were shaking. They all had been worried about me and were relieved to see that I had moved. Breakfast on the beach and sunny skies boded for a perfect chance to dry everything out from all the damp weather of the past 36 hours. Thank you weather guardians!
Eventually I said goodbye to Donna and crew and continued packing my stuff up to head to the park. Harish and Monica, the owners of the Driftwood Cottages were out and about cleaning and invited me in for coffee when they were finished. Bike loaded, I moseyed over and we spent a very pleasant hour sharing space, conversation and tasty coffee with cream! Indian food, traditions, marriage, family, my past cycling adventures, spirituality, adventure, their story of moving to Advocate two years ago to run the business, everything. I felt like I was visiting with my own mum and dad. The sunny, breezy office was so peaceful and we were all so grateful for something that felt normal. From the time when people just stop by and say hi, and you have coffee and snacks together. They are very sweet people and the cottages are beautiful....I highly recommend a visit.
Onwards with my day, I meandered to the park, found our campsite for the night, sorted out my gear of what I would need for hiking and eventually made my way back into Advocate to go check out The Wild Caraway, a restaurant that has come highly recommended to me by many people for many years.
Local to the max, delicious beyond belief and really friendly staff made for a great takeout experience. Sitting in the sun at a picnic table making fun and lighthearted conversation with the many other patrons was so delightful. It was some of the best chowder I've ever had....and the first salad I've had in 10 days or more! I passed on messages of love and greetings from friends and Melissa back at The Flying Apron to Sarah, the owner. A busy place, it is very obvious that there is so much passion for the food that is placed on your table.
Biking verrrry slowly back to the park I digested my food and human interactions, of which there were many. So many people from all over the province out discovering the magic of this place. Halifax, Pictou, Truro, Cape Breton, lots of first timers too! Everyone was aghast that I'd biked up "all those crazy hills" to get there. Yeah I did....please pass the chowder!
Jane, Lara and Leonie arrived safe and sound not long after I returned. It was so great to hug them! Cycling phase one was officially over....and now I have to carry my stuff on my back, while Black Beauty gets to snooze in Jane's car for the long weekend. Spirits are high and we are all really looking forward to travelling the coast together. Three fresh sets of eyes to see the beauty of the cape!
While sitting at a picnic table chatting overall candle, I had the sense of how much time I have already spent getting to know this area of high tides and kind souls. It has been a week now and the days are beginning to roll together. Watching the stars come out, the moon rise....and then the fog roll in, it's almost like the rhythm of this place is becoming mine again. I know what the tide is doing at all times without looking....and the weather, as surprising as it can be is starting to feel familiar. It is an honour to be a part of this landscape.
To fully be present with the land, the tides and my friends I will set down my proverbial pen for the next few days. It feels like the most respectful thing I can do as a human entering the wilderness is to not bring more of the outside world with me than is necessary. No phone, no data, just a few photos here and there.
Be well, thanks for reading...over and out until Monday evening!
So much in just one week! You are amazing as usual! Look forward to the next installment!
still charming the locals. say hi to the Mill Stream Hill for me. Stay safe.